Hike to Smbataberd Fortress and Tsaghats Kar Monastery

Smbataberd, meaning “Fortress of Smbat,” is located in the Vayots Dzor Province of Armenia, near the village of Yeghegis. It is one of the largest fortresses in the region and is a fine example of medieval military architecture. The fortress was built on the site of a 5th-century lookout post.

The fortress stands on top of a high hill and is protected on three sides by cliffs that drop into deep valleys, where the Artabun and Yeghegis rivers flow. Its position made it extremely difficult to attack. There were no trees nearby to give cover for attackers, and the thick stone walls—between 2 and 4 meter thick—were too tall and strong to break through. Even a long siege wouldn’t work, as the fortress had a secret pipeline bringing in fresh water, and its storehouses were well stocked with food supplies.

The whole fortress was built for long-term defence, following the traditional design of medieval strongholds. It’s about one kilometre long and divided into two sections: north and south. Each part had its own main stronghold. Ruins of old barracks and water storage pools have been found in both areas.

Tsaghats Kar Monastery, built in the 10th century, is about 6 kilometres north of the village of Yeghegis. The complex is made up of three main sections, each with its own group of buildings.

The first group includes the Church of Surb Nshan (Holy Sign) and the cross-shaped Church of Surb Karapet (Saint Karapet). Both churches are decorated with beautifully carved khachkars (Armenian cross-stones).

The second group includes the Church of Surb Astvatsatsin (Holy Mother of God) with an entrance hall (gavit) next to it. There’s also a columned hall, a dining room, monks’ rooms, meeting areas, and service buildings. To the west, you’ll find more ruins, including a gavit with large arched niches—part of its roof is still standing. Nearby are the remains of other buildings like a vaulted hall, a small entrance room, monks’ living quarters, and storage rooms.

Some of the western buildings are partly ruined. Most were made from roughly cut stone and built inside a walled yard, except for one that stands a bit apart.

Just south of the monastery is an old cemetery with many cross-stones and gravestones, beautifully carved and scattered among the ruins.

Above the eastern gate, a special inscription has been preserved. It tells the story of a gift from Prince Eachi Proshyan, who donated a garden he had planted in memory of his grandfather, Prince Prosh. The inscription reads:

“I, Eachi, son of Hasan, grandson of Prosh, having joined the monks of Tsaghats Kar, have given the garden I planted in my lands. Our brother, Father Hovhannes Orbel, and the monks have promised to hold four services each year—for the souls of our family, including my wife, Mamakhatun. May those who keep this promise be blessed.”

(The price includes the transport vehicle — it stays the same no matter how many people join.)

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